Turkey Monster, Oregon

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Turkey Monster, Oregon

Postby Scott Patterson » Sun Mar 12, 2017 3:00 pm

I noticed that Turkey Monster isn't on LOJ. It may even have close to 300 feet of prominence, but it so tall and thin that it doesn't show this on the map.

Turkey Monster:


Scott Patterson
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Re: Turkey Monster, Oregon

Postby John Kirk » Mon Mar 13, 2017 4:04 pm


Put in as soft-ranked, because adding the pitch lengths together comes out to 300' even. Of course, no pitches that stay on rock are perfectly vertical and have no angles, so sounds like it's extremely unlikely this is 300'+ prominence:
Pitch 1: C1+F, 80 feet. From the high saddle/ridge at the pinnacle’s northern base, clip old bolts and move right. Couple more manky fixed pieces bring you to a crack. Follow it for 30 feet till you see bolts going up (all except 1 are of the old flavor). At the top of the bolt ladder, follow funky aid placements up and left to a cave-like recess visible from ground. Much fixed mank here could be strung up for a hanging belay anchor.
Pitch 2: C2, 100 feet. Move up via a 4-inch crack through the roof. Follow the chossy crack above which becomes more scary as you get higher (feels almost as though the flake that forms the left side of crack is flexing, especially at its top where it’s thinnest). The crack makes a slight right turn above and you arrive at a semi-hanging belay stance. Two old bolts and one brand new. Can be backed up with #3 Camalot. Pitches 1 and 2 can be combined with a 60 meter rope (we had 70 meter lines but I think 60’s would suffice?).
Pitch 3: C2, 70 feet. Move up from belay (clipping one old bolt) and pass a wide crack section. Reach an old fixed belay (worse gear than one below) just below the overhanging headwall. Climb the headwall via a “bolt” ladder – old fixed mank with one particularly exciting move near top. Pull over the lip onto a lower angle slab (fixed belay, bad bolts).
Pitch 4: low 5th class, 50 feet. Move up the lower angle slab terrain (tad licheny as you’d imagine) aiming for just left of Turkey’s head. Fixed sling belay (huge hole in rock) available 8 feet below top of head.
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John Kirk
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Re: Turkey Monster, Oregon

Postby Scott Patterson » Mon Mar 13, 2017 7:21 pm

Sounds good. It is strange that the tower doesn't show up at all on the topo maps.

PS, it should also go on the 5th class peaks list.
Scott Patterson
Posts: 126
Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2006 2:58 pm

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