by Tom Pierce » Thu Oct 09, 2014 7:00 am
Scott,
Yes, I'll be back for sure. The wind and cold were enough to make just hanging out checking on possible routes sort of annoying. I'd for sure want to check out the line that Teresa and I found, and would have done so if the weather had been as forecasted (was supposed to be sunny in the 60's in Steamboat). So here's a beta dump on RE:
Approach: We were able to drive my 4Runner all the way up the road, I mean all the way, we parked 100' away from the base of the west tower. The road was actually pretty easy 4WD, but some recent meltwater puddles of unknown depths and mud made it a bit sporty in spots. There was snow on some of the shady sections, but again not that hard, e.g. not like the Como road at all.
Formation: I was thinking it'd be more robust vesicular basalt, with some cemented cobbles in spots. It's not, it's definitely a hodgepodge of volcanic layers; (1) The lowest was a gray/burnt orange pyroclastic layer, what I call dried BBQ ashes. Crumbly, unprotectable. (2) A band of generally solid basalt cobbles, although some of surprising size were movable by hand. This band is the key to the peak, IMO. (3) Another pyroclastic layer, sort of a reddish tuff/breccia. It has cobbles, but poorly cemented IMO, based on a visual scan. Some cracks in it, but it doesn't look strong enough to withstand a lead fall. (4) Upper basalt layers. Could only see this layer from 40' away, but looks generally solid enough, certainly better than other crap I've been climbing lately. If you can make it that far, I think you're home free.
Routes: Don't hold me to compass directions, not my forte. But the routes: A. On the east arete there is a line that could go for a bold crack/face climber. The boldness is in getting up to an obvious crack by climbing through layers 1 & 2. But then the crack is in layer 3, and I seriously doubt pro in there would hold a significant lead fall. It's also near dead vertical, negative angle in some avoidable spots. If you can clear the crack it looks pretty easy after that. This is also probably a viable aid line: get up to the base of the crack, place and test the placement, then step up & repeat. I think the pro would be cams in the < BD #1 range, maybe mid size wires. Rock looks too crumbly for any pins. A possibility for me, I've done some aid stuff but it isn't how I want to climb a peak. I'd save that option for much later, if at all. But it's definitely a short aid route candidate. B. Teresa's Route: On the same east arete, note the very large cobble protruding out, just to climber's right of center. I think (?) it may be possible to sling/girth hitch this with a cordelette (I mean the thin spectra ones, I use some made by BD or Mammut, fwiw). Not positive on that, just an idea. The goal is to protect a rightward traverse on cobbles in layer 2. Some are loose (I tested) but it looks do-able. Continue traversing around the corner to climber's right. Teresa and I thought there may (?) be pro possibilities at arm's length up in what looked like some constrictions. Come to a steep section that is a very mild dihedral of sorts, key to the route. If this is protectable (a BIG if), and assuming decent holds (it looked 5.6-ish to me) the upper section above is lower angle on what appears to be more solid/textured rock. Risk: As you traverse right, the ground below drops away from you, and is steeply sloping down. If it was unprotectable and/or you fell and the gear pulled, it'd be a very nasty fall. I've always feared the backwards fall onto steep slopes; feet probably hit first to brake the fall but I think the brunt of the impact would be on your spine and head, possibly followed by cartwheels downslope. A wheelchair fall, possibly worse. Maybe I'm being too cautious, but it made me not want to try this route until I could do it in on a warmer day with my tight rock shoes, no gloves and no high wind. C. The Untested Middle Route: On the N side of the formation it's possible to climb up into the saddle between the two spires. From there there could be a route, but we looked on both sides of the saddle from below and saw none. Very likely an aid candidate on small cams and wires, possibly pins (Bugaboos or Knifeblades?); I could see seams from a distance, but covered in a lot of lichen. But here's an intriguing idea: It may be possible to climb into the saddle and with a very light rope toss it over the top of the highest spire. Probably not, but maybe? A bow and arrow candidate for sure. By doing so you eliminate layers 1 & 2, maybe 3 as well. Just an idea.
Gear: Other than the gear suggestions above, I'd now try to climb this on skinny (7.7mm) twin ropes rather than the fatty we lugged up, lower impact force in a fall. Of course if an aid climb was tried a thicker single rope would make sense to me. Screamers for sure (for a free climb attempt), the rock is just pretty crappy. Finally some rap webbing/cord. Teresa thought she saw a cairn on top, but it's unknown what rap anchors might be. But if you made the top, a simul-rap off would be a possibility if there were no viable anchors (just bring a long enough rope!)
I'll be back, but probably not this year given the weather. I have other stuff planned for 2014 but this is lower on the list. I hope the beta helps. Be safe out there!
-Tom