Class ratings - Rabbit Ears and "Dragon's Back"

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Re: Class ratings - Rabbit Ears and "Dragon's Back"

Postby TeresaGergen » Wed Sep 24, 2014 8:24 pm

The eastern ear/summit is split. You can see it in the photos from a distance that John put on the West page (this is taken from the south):
http://listsofjohn.com/img/2/1115.jpg

The highest ground is on the east tower of the east summit.

I matched up my photos from today with Scott's above, and I am pretty sure that in his first photo of his last post, he's looking up the west/lower tower of the east summit, from the south.

IMG_5545.JPG
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Re: Class ratings - Rabbit Ears and "Dragon's Back"

Postby Scott Patterson » Thu Sep 25, 2014 7:27 am

I matched up my photos from today with Scott's above, and I am pretty sure that in his first photo of his last post, he's looking up the west/lower tower of the east summit, from the south.


You are correct. Sorry about that.

The eastern ear/summit is split.


For those interested, from what I've seen, I believe the two towers are the ones referred to as the "Rabbit Ears" specifically. At least it says so in local sources such as the book Hiking the 'Boat, which says specifically that the west summit isn't one of the ears:

http://www.amazon.com/Hiking-Boat-II-St ... g+the+boat

The topo maps label the west summit block "Rabbit Ears Peak" (which may refer to the whole group of rocks?).

Some people call the west summit (with the benchmark), the "Rabbits Back" or "Back of the Rabbit". I just call it the west summit to avoid confusion.

Example of usage of "Back of the Rabbit":

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/rabbit ... /106841437

It does make a difference as to which angle you are looking at the mountain from though as to which of the summits/towers have the appearance of rabbit's ears.
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Re: Class ratings - Rabbit Ears and "Dragon's Back"

Postby John Kirk » Thu Sep 25, 2014 8:34 am

Scott Patterson wrote:For those interested, from what I've seen, I believe the two towers are the ones referred to as the "Rabbit Ears" specifically. At least it says so in local sources such as the book Hiking the 'Boat, which says specifically that the west summit isn't one of the ears


I've suspected the same. The photo of mine that Teresa referenced illustrates this pretty well. I've updated the names to reflect this, including the book as a source for the "Rabbit Ears."
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Re: Class ratings - Rabbit Ears and "Dragon's Back"

Postby Tom Pierce » Mon Oct 06, 2014 2:29 pm

Teresa and I went out today to try the "new" Rabbit Ears summit. No luck. It's a much stiffer little peak than the photos suggest. We were able to see a line that probably would go, with moves no harder than 5.6-ish (a total guess on my part), but it would be very difficult if not impossible to protect the crux. Perhaps possible to protect if you could sling a key boulder/cobble with a cordelette, but we didn't climb all the way up to see if that was feasible. Why not? Well, the weather was not at all what we expected. Sunny, but with cold temps (20's? 30's for sure) with sustained winds, enough to occasionally push you around. I don't think I'm too wimpy (?) but my hands would start heading toward numbness after only a few minutes outside my jacket. Enough that it made me not want to even try something this sporty. Anyway, if you fell unprotected at the crux the exposure was such that it'd be at least a "daddy's in a wheelchair" fall, possibly fatal. With the combo of sporty conditions and lousy, distracting weather, I just didn't feel an attempt was safe. I do think the peak is an aid climbing candidate, but that's a peak bagging frontier I don't really want to cross, at least not now.

Sorry about coming up short today Teresa, maybe next time. At least you got a good test drive of a 4Runner! ;-)

-Tom
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Re: Class ratings - Rabbit Ears and "Dragon's Back"

Postby TeresaGergen » Mon Oct 06, 2014 3:27 pm

The wind was biting cold. Definitely not what I expected from the forecast either. Tom, thanks a bunch for checking it out today!
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Re: Class ratings - Rabbit Ears and "Dragon's Back"

Postby Scott Patterson » Thu Oct 09, 2014 12:12 am

I assume another attempt is in order when the weather warms up?

How high were you able to get?
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Re: Class ratings - Rabbit Ears and "Dragon's Back"

Postby Tom Pierce » Thu Oct 09, 2014 7:00 am

Scott,

Yes, I'll be back for sure. The wind and cold were enough to make just hanging out checking on possible routes sort of annoying. I'd for sure want to check out the line that Teresa and I found, and would have done so if the weather had been as forecasted (was supposed to be sunny in the 60's in Steamboat). So here's a beta dump on RE:

Approach: We were able to drive my 4Runner all the way up the road, I mean all the way, we parked 100' away from the base of the west tower. The road was actually pretty easy 4WD, but some recent meltwater puddles of unknown depths and mud made it a bit sporty in spots. There was snow on some of the shady sections, but again not that hard, e.g. not like the Como road at all.

Formation: I was thinking it'd be more robust vesicular basalt, with some cemented cobbles in spots. It's not, it's definitely a hodgepodge of volcanic layers; (1) The lowest was a gray/burnt orange pyroclastic layer, what I call dried BBQ ashes. Crumbly, unprotectable. (2) A band of generally solid basalt cobbles, although some of surprising size were movable by hand. This band is the key to the peak, IMO. (3) Another pyroclastic layer, sort of a reddish tuff/breccia. It has cobbles, but poorly cemented IMO, based on a visual scan. Some cracks in it, but it doesn't look strong enough to withstand a lead fall. (4) Upper basalt layers. Could only see this layer from 40' away, but looks generally solid enough, certainly better than other crap I've been climbing lately. If you can make it that far, I think you're home free.

Routes: Don't hold me to compass directions, not my forte. But the routes: A. On the east arete there is a line that could go for a bold crack/face climber. The boldness is in getting up to an obvious crack by climbing through layers 1 & 2. But then the crack is in layer 3, and I seriously doubt pro in there would hold a significant lead fall. It's also near dead vertical, negative angle in some avoidable spots. If you can clear the crack it looks pretty easy after that. This is also probably a viable aid line: get up to the base of the crack, place and test the placement, then step up & repeat. I think the pro would be cams in the < BD #1 range, maybe mid size wires. Rock looks too crumbly for any pins. A possibility for me, I've done some aid stuff but it isn't how I want to climb a peak. I'd save that option for much later, if at all. But it's definitely a short aid route candidate. B. Teresa's Route: On the same east arete, note the very large cobble protruding out, just to climber's right of center. I think (?) it may be possible to sling/girth hitch this with a cordelette (I mean the thin spectra ones, I use some made by BD or Mammut, fwiw). Not positive on that, just an idea. The goal is to protect a rightward traverse on cobbles in layer 2. Some are loose (I tested) but it looks do-able. Continue traversing around the corner to climber's right. Teresa and I thought there may (?) be pro possibilities at arm's length up in what looked like some constrictions. Come to a steep section that is a very mild dihedral of sorts, key to the route. If this is protectable (a BIG if), and assuming decent holds (it looked 5.6-ish to me) the upper section above is lower angle on what appears to be more solid/textured rock. Risk: As you traverse right, the ground below drops away from you, and is steeply sloping down. If it was unprotectable and/or you fell and the gear pulled, it'd be a very nasty fall. I've always feared the backwards fall onto steep slopes; feet probably hit first to brake the fall but I think the brunt of the impact would be on your spine and head, possibly followed by cartwheels downslope. A wheelchair fall, possibly worse. Maybe I'm being too cautious, but it made me not want to try this route until I could do it in on a warmer day with my tight rock shoes, no gloves and no high wind. C. The Untested Middle Route: On the N side of the formation it's possible to climb up into the saddle between the two spires. From there there could be a route, but we looked on both sides of the saddle from below and saw none. Very likely an aid candidate on small cams and wires, possibly pins (Bugaboos or Knifeblades?); I could see seams from a distance, but covered in a lot of lichen. But here's an intriguing idea: It may be possible to climb into the saddle and with a very light rope toss it over the top of the highest spire. Probably not, but maybe? A bow and arrow candidate for sure. By doing so you eliminate layers 1 & 2, maybe 3 as well. Just an idea.

Gear: Other than the gear suggestions above, I'd now try to climb this on skinny (7.7mm) twin ropes rather than the fatty we lugged up, lower impact force in a fall. Of course if an aid climb was tried a thicker single rope would make sense to me. Screamers for sure (for a free climb attempt), the rock is just pretty crappy. Finally some rap webbing/cord. Teresa thought she saw a cairn on top, but it's unknown what rap anchors might be. But if you made the top, a simul-rap off would be a possibility if there were no viable anchors (just bring a long enough rope!)

I'll be back, but probably not this year given the weather. I have other stuff planned for 2014 but this is lower on the list. I hope the beta helps. Be safe out there!
-Tom
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Re: Class ratings - Rabbit Ears and "Dragon's Back"

Postby John Kirk » Wed Oct 22, 2014 11:15 am

Looks like Dave and Teresa got'er done. Looking forward to the TR Dave
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Re: Class ratings - Rabbit Ears and "Dragon's Back"

Postby TeresaGergen » Wed Oct 22, 2014 12:09 pm

Thanks, Dave! This was an interesting climb for me -- the climbing moves themselves were not real hard, but I've never been on rock like this before, and it felt worse under my hands and feet than I'd thought it looked from the ground. Dave spent a lot of time making careful gear placements and testing them heavily. I found myself grabbing the pro above to clean pieces, since putting my weight on most rock holds for very long didn't feel secure at all. When a large foothold I thought I'd tested came out under me and I took a small fall with a slight pendulum, I just pretty much pulled on gear the rest of the way up the steeper part. Dave, I'm looking forward to hearing how a leader would describe the climbing too - I was learning just watching you.

I did backsight with the level to the western summit, and this one definitely is higher. Scott, thanks again for noting it. And Tom, thanks very much for all the information from the recon effort. This *is* a cold summit. I was in the shade belaying, up against the rock to stay out of the way of rockfall, and was shivering by the time Dave made it up, even on a sunny day with minimal wind. It was a good call not to proceed when we were there.
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