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Peak L

PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 3:02 pm
by ClimbingCooneys
Interested in opinions regarding what kind of protection, if any, to take on Peak L. Rope? How much? Sling, cams, etc. Our understanding is that the climb is not any worse than 4th class scrambling but very exposed. Have most rappelled off the summit block section or downclimbed? Planning a Labor Day trip there.

Re: Peak L

PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 12:36 pm
by DArcyStraub
It's my understanding that you don't need to do the west ridge route as described in Cooper's book. I know one party that did the east ridge and they said it wasn't too bad (i.e., class 3).

Re: Peak L

PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 9:16 pm
by TeresaGergen
I wrote in my notes at the time: "Up NE ridge to Pk L (Class 3+ or 4), then descended steep slabs on standard route (Class 4) to reach knife edge (Class 3+?)...A lot of stuff on Guyselman and Pk L was very reachy and might affect my Class ratings." I'm 5'3".

No technical gear. Seems I remember the rock being pretty solid?

Re: Peak L

PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 12:41 pm
by ClimbingCooneys
Thanks for the replies, both of you. Teresa, knowing of your exploits, we might still want a backup rope, but there are lighter, shorter options we can take. Us older types, more in touch with our mortality, seem to grow a little more fearful each year. On the other hand though, I think I'd still prefer to go out on a peak than wasting away on a bed somewhere with some disease slowing eating up my innards.

Re: Peak L

PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 5:35 pm
by Mike Garratt
Have not looked at this list in while.

Been up L twice.

The N ridge is more of a scamble from the saddle N of summit.

The easiest is to some up the S ridge.
When you get to about 12800
contour below the ridge on the S side.
When you get to a little ridgelet coming off the S ridge to the SE
contour up directly N until under the summit and finsh coming up from the E.
Third class no need for belays.

Re: Peak L

PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 8:40 pm
by ClimbingCooneys
Thanks Mike. If we get to go Labor Day, we'll post a brief summary of how it went for us.