Mt. Garfield & Electric Peak - Grenadier Range

[ClimbingCooneys]

Been looking at a map of Garfield & Electric & was wondering about a potential ascent/descent route on Garfield. From the Animas River a little south of Elk Park area, there is a prominent rib that comes off the north end of Garfield and then swings down NW to the river. The rib/ridge is located between two very well entrenched drainages. On USGS map, it shows the entire 2,600 feet of ridge to be forested, but in actual photos, it appeares that large sections of it are open rock at not too steep of an angle. Has anyone attempted this ridge and can tell us anything about it? Also, info on getting over the northern two false summits of Garfield is helpful. Looks like some steep work in there and then some prominent notches.
On Electric, does anyone have info/suggestions regarding ascending/descending the south ridge to the saddle?

[DaveLanders]

The north ridge of Garfield looks like a cool route. If you do it, please post a report!

There is a short couloir just east of the south ridge of Electric which is probably the easiest
route. It looks hard from below, but isn't bad. The talus slope above that to reach the
summit was a little loose, but not too difficult.

Overall, Vestal, Arrow and the Trinities are by far the best climbs in the Vestal Creek
drainage, but if the north ridge of Garfield goes, I would add that to the list.

[ClimbingCooneys]

Took the Molas Trail down to Elk Park last Friday and had plenty of opportunity to examine the NW ridge off Garfield. We decided that it looked like something that could go rather badly. Did not appear to be as open as one photo that we saw suggested. It would clearly be a tough bushwhack for a long distance - so time being limited and not wanting to have to return to try again if the route didn't go, we took the chicken way out and packed on up to the beaver ponds and set up camp there. At our advancing ages, didn't have the will power to pack on up Vestal Creek. Just figured we do the climb from the ponds. After having done both Garfield & Electric and it taking 13 hours 20 minutes, we're now wondering if the bushwhack would have been worth the try. The "standard" route from the beaver ponds, up Vestal Creek, up between Arrow & Electric to the Electric/Graystone saddle and then contouring over to Garfield was tedious and slow - so much rubble! No snow left to help in any substantail way. 3rd class climbing on both peaks was entertaining. We did take the narrow couloir just east of the south ridge on Electric up to the head. There was a nice cairn there. At that point, decided to turn left and follow 3rd class rock upward. Arrived at a very narrow arete section which at that point, we're so tired, we just skirted on the east and came out at the saddle between the summit and the false south summit. On the way back down, we contoured down & across the much larger head of the upper couloir and back to the cairn marking the top of the first couloir. Got to be careful going down that thing. Saw some reallay nice columbine on both peaks in the high gullies. Also saw a moose and her calf at the beaver ponds. At least enjoyed a perfect weather day - no threat of rain whatsoever and of course, spectacular views from both summits of so many of the Grenadier and Needle peaks.

[Mike Garratt]

You know I have been looking at that route up for a couple of years.

From 1/3 mile S of where the railroad cross the Animas there is an narrow avalanche gully that goes up to treeline.
Has a bunch of brush at the bottom but opens up after 500 vertical feet.
Best go when it is dry.
Gully hits the N ridge at 11300.
You have to drop about 300-400 feet to get into the Garfield Lake drainage to get up to Garfield Lake.

Or you can try the N ridge.
Not sure whether you can get up the ridge N ridge of Garfield and along the ridge to the hi point.
It looks steep but might go as do many routes inthe Grenadiers and W Needles.
That quartzy rock tends to have many weaknesses.

Was thing of doing the ridge over Point Pun and Graystone and doing a loop down the way you came up.
Long way but cool route.

If anybody's but up there I sure would like to hear.